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search: ingredient glossaryA | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer –
an emulsifier with thickening and stabilizing formula properties similar
to carbomer; immediately upon rubbing the product into the skin, it allows
for release of the formulation’s oil phase component Acrylates Copolymer – reduces shine by absorbing skin secretions;
imparts a pleasant feel to the product and helps reduce any feeling of
oiliness; prolongs the availability to the skin of other ingredients in
the product through a time-release type of activity Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract – vasoconstrictor;
strengthens capillary walls; stimulates circulation and normalizes circulatory
disorders; anti-inflammatory benefits as well as toning and astringent
properties Agrimony (Agrimonia Cupatoria) Extract – anti-inflammatory and
astringent; credited with shrinking inflamed tissue; it analgesic properties
make it appropriate for sensitive and inflamed skins – even acne Alcohol SD 40 B – “specially denatured” alcohol; the
number 40 refers to the alcohol’s grade; this is a high grade version
of ethyl alcohol designed specially for cosmetic use; it is antibacterial,
and evaporates almost immediately, leaving the active ingredients on the
skin; excellent solvent because of it’s strong grease dissolving
abilities; also used as an antiseptic. It is necessary in our toner formulas
to keep the salicylic acid in liquid form. Algae Extract/Seaweed Extract – the benefits of this extract can
be attributed to the plants wealth of components that include vitamins,
minerals, amino acids, lipids, and polysaccharides, just to name a few.
Algae is found to be stimulating, revitalizing, nourishing, and moisturizing
to the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory and disinfectant abilities. Alginate – gelling and thickening agent Allantoin – from the comfrey root; excellent temporary anti-irritant
and is believed to aid in the healing of damaged skin by stimulating new
tissue growth. This healing, soothing extract can benefit all skins and
is especially beneficial for sensitive, irritated, and acne skins. Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice or Aloe Vera Gel - gel comes
from the mucilage obtained from the leaves; penetrates the skin, supplying
moisture directly to the tissue; excellent hydrator, UV light absorber,
softener, and healer with anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties. Alpha Lipoiz – made from Lipoiz Acid Althea Officinalis (Marshmallow) Extract – natural hydroglycolic
plant extract that is said to have emollient, soothing and healing properties;
good for aftershave, after sun, and dry skin Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate – thickener, absorbent powder Amino Acids – vegetable derived to enhance water retention and
skin moisturization. Because of their reduced size, amino acids can penetrate
deeper into the stratum corneum’s cell layers than proteins with
a higher molecular weight, such as collagen. Aminomethylpropanol – preservative Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate – a surfactant with emulsifying capabilities;
can be irritating so it should be combined with anti-irritating and hydrating
ingredients Angelica Extract – anti-bacterial and analgesic qualities that
aid in skin healing and relief of surface pain Arginine – skin conditioning amino acid to enhance water retention
and moisturization; amino acids stimulate cell regeneration and have anti-oxidizing
and anti-inflammatory properties Artemisia Vulgaris (Mugwort) Extract – anti-stinging, anti-irritant,
anti-inflammatory, offers some protection against UV, chemical irritants,
and the environment Artichoke (Cynara Scolymus) – diuretic properties that promote
circulation Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) – a powerful antioxidant; it also has
good preservative properties Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Palmitate) – antioxidant that helps
inhibit UVA and UVB radiation-induced damage. It is said to be able to
help the body fortify against infectious conditions by strengthening the
immune system. Along with being photoprotective, Vitamin C also acts as
a collagen biosynthesis regulator. It can have a skin-lightening effect.
Vitamin C exhibits some anti-inflammatory properties and might promote
healing of tissue damaged by burns or injury. It is also used as a preservative. Asparagus Officinialis Extract – excellent source of Vitamin A
that aids in moisturizing and nourishing skin Avobenzone (BMDM, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane – sunscreen chemical
that offers broad range protection against UVA rays Avocado Oil – may mobilize and increase the collagen of connective
tissue to keep the skin moist and smooth; credited with healing, soothing,
and photo-protective properties; this natural oil has excellent penetration
properties and lots of vitamins and linoleic and linolenic acids Azulene Extract – excellent for sensitive skin; anti-inflammatory
and soothing properties Balm Mint (Melissa Officinalis) Extract / Melissa Extract
– calming, soothing, healing, tightening, anti-bactericidal, and
circulation stimulating. Balm, also know as Melissa extract, is great
for all skin types but especially helpful for post sun, rosacea, sensitive,
and acne conditions Bearberry (Arcctostaphylos Uva-ursi) Extract – contains arbutin,
which is converted to hydroquinone on the skin. Hydroquinone acts as an
antioxidant to inhibit the oxidation reaction that converts tyrosine to
melanin. Bee Pollen – contains essential vitamins, minerals, and fats to
nourish skin cells Bee Propolis Extract – healing, cleansing, and sun protective properties;
it is a component of beeswax that has been collected from botanical sources;
propolis has resins, balsam, various waxes, essential oils, pollen, flavonoids,
amino acids, vitamins, and minerals Beeswax – non-comedogenic emulsifier that forms a network, rather
than a film like petrolatum, on the skin’s surface that is credited
with the following properties: anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, antioxidant,
anti-bactericidal, germicidal, and skin softening, elasticity-enhancing,
and free radical scavenging Beet (Beta Vulgaris) Extract – high in iron and has some anti-cancer
properties; used as poultice for soothing black eyes Bentonite – colloidal aluminum silicate clay that is non-comedogenic
and provides a nice viscosity to our mask Benzoin – antiseptic and mild stimulant used to cleanse, soothe,
and stimulate skin Benzophenone–3 (Oxybenzone) – oil soluble sunscreen that
absorbs rays in both the UVA and UVB range Benzoyl Peroxide – antibacterial agent used to clear skin of acne
by reducing the level of free fatty acids and skin infection; this is
accomplished by forcing an oxidant (peroxide) into the philosebaceous
orifice (follicle) where it releases oxygen; the acne’s bacteria
that is responsible for causing acne cannot live in the presence of oxygen Bergamot Essential Oil – very uplifting, healing, calming, antidepressant;
balances emotions; blends and modifies Beta Carotene (Carrot Extract) – antioxidant that comes from the
root of carrots that can serve as a natural peach colorant; it helps maintain
healthy skin because it is an emollient, skin protectant, gentle exfoliant
with Anti-aging properties Beta-Glucan – stimulates skin’s immune system for regeneration,
protection, and healing; it is responsible for stimulation of immune-competent
cells, which in turn helps with accelerated regeneration and wound healing;
great to use in products for environmentally stressed and irritated skin.
Beta-glucan has extraordinarily high water-binding properties which results
in optimum hydration of the skin; this leads to a firming of the skin
and simultaneous smoothing of wrinkles that will be noticed Beta-Sitoserol – enhances immune system; phytosterols are essentially
plant fats that include beta-sitosterol and its glucoside beta-sitosterolin Biosaccharide Gum – derivative of sorbitol that is a humectant
and skin conditioner Birch Essential Oil – helps heal wounds, cleanse blood, dissolve
uric acid; used for treating rheumatism, sore muscles, cramped muscles,
skin rashes, and cellulite. Good for body and massage products Black Pelan Silt – our liposilts are the sediments from the freshwater
lakes in Eastern Europe formed over 10,000 years ago by the decomposition
of organic life, primarily aquatic plants, algae, and plankton. The activity
and benefits of the liposilts are mainly due to the presence of Humic
Acids, Lipids, and water-soluble organic substances. Humic Acids belong
to the class of hydroxy acids, which are known to have beneficial skin
care effects. The black pelan silt contains a higher level of Humic Acid
and is primarily recommended for oily and problem skin. Bladderwrack (Fucus Vesiculosos) – another brown algae rich in
trace elements with excellent occlusion properties Borage (Borage Officinalis) Extract – emollient properties soothe
and soften irritated skin tissue Borage Oil – emollient oil that soothes and softens irritated skin,
especially dry itching skin Bromelain – enzyme from pineapple that serves as a gentle exfoliant
on the skin;has good keratin dissolving properties (keratolytic); important
constituents include mucins, amino acids, polysaccharides, minerals, flavonoids,
and enzymes. Butcher’s Broom (Ruscus Aculeatus) Root Extract – said to
have diuretic and anti-itch properties as well as slimming and anti-cellulite
effects Butylene Glycol – a solvent that enhances the preservative activity
of the parabens; it has good anti-microbial action Butylparaben – a preservative that is not effective for fungi and
yeast so must be combined with other preservatives; it will increase the
preservative activity spectrum; it is only effective in the acid pH range C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate or C12-15 Alcohol Benzoate –
an emulsifier Cactus (Cereus Grandiflorus) Extract – used for healing skin problems
and for softening skin Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract or Calendula Extract – this
blossom is emollient and credited with healing, soothing, antiseptic,
anti-itching, and anti-inflammatory properties; reduces appearance of
varicose veins, body scars, and facial thread veins Calmine – mineral solution consisting of zinc oxide and a little
ferric oxide; credited with astringent and cooling properties; helpful
for irritated and sunburned skins Camphor – effective for oily and acne skin; credited with anti-inflammatory,
antiseptic, anesthetic, astringent, cooling, circulatory enhancing and
refreshing properties; smells similar to eucalyptus Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – a non-comedogenic, non-greasy emollient
with good spreading and penetrating properties; improves the feel and
spreadability of the skin; Camphor (Cinnamomum Camphora) – effective for oily and acne skin;
credited with anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, anesthetic, astringent, cooling,
circulatory enhancing and refreshing properties; smells similar to eucalyptus Carbomer – high molecular-weight cross-linked polymers used as
thickening and suspending agents and emulsion stabilizers Carrot (Oleo Resin) Extract (Beta Carotene) – antioxidant that
comes from the root of carrots that can serve as a natural peach colorant;
it helps maintain healthy skin because it is an emollient, skin protectant,
gentle exfoliant with Anti-aging properties Carthamus Tinctorisu (Hybrid Safflower Oil) – non-comedogenic carrier
oil that is also very hydrating for the skin Cedar Essential Oil – diuretic; rejuvenating; calming and cleansing;
helps pull in all of the other essences for blending Celery Extract – diuretic and astringent properties that aid in
clearing up problem skin Centella Asiatica Extract or Hydrocotyl (Centella Asiatica) Extract or
Gotu Kola Extract – also known as Indian Pennywort. Gotu kola is
healing and may promote circulation, which would make it good for cellulite.
It does inhibit keratinocyte proliferation so it is helpful for severely
dry skin conditions such as psoriasis. It is helpful for couperose and
other benefits provided include healing, soothing and anti-itch properties. Cetearyl Alcohol – an emulsifying wax that gives high viscosity
to a finished product Cetearyl Glucoside – an emulsifier Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol – serve as emollients, emulsifiers,
and viscosity builders Cetyl Dimethicone – a silicone base emollient and skin conditioning
agent that offers occlusion Cetyl Ricinoleate – an emollient and emulsion stabilizer; non-comedogenic Chamomile Essential Oil – very calming; relieves tension, anger,
over sensitivity, depression; good for menstrual and pre-menstrual cramps
and discomfort Chamomile (Aanthemis Nobilis and Matricaria Chamomilla) Extract or Chamomilla
Recutita (Matricaria) Extract – clinically proven anti-inflammatory
and repair properties; also credited with soothing, antiseptic, purifying,
and refreshing properties. Cherimoya Extract – good source of protein, calcium, minerals,
and vitamins that promote skin rejuvenation; especially high in iron and
niacin, which help prevent dermatitis Chinese Red Root - Promotes skin tissue repair and regeneration Chlorella Vulgaris Extract – prevents collaganase and elastase
from destroying collagen and elastin which is responsible for the texture,
flexibility, and tone of the skin. As cells age, enzymatic hydrolysis
destroys collagen and elastin. This process leads to a decrease in skin
flexibility and the appearance of aging. Chlorella vulgaris extract stimulates
the synthesis of collagen which increases the density of the network of
fibroblast-deposited fibers, which contributes to the restructuring of
scar or aging tissues. It is especially recommended in order to avoid
the appearance of stretch marks. Chromium Oxide Green – a color additive Citric Acid – astringent and antioxidant properties but it serves
as a preservative as well Clary Sage Essential Oil – eases pre-menstrual and menstrual discomforts
including cramps; relaxing; balancing; revitalizing; excellent for female
hormones and balancing hormones; balances skin sebum too Clay – emollient mineral used to regulate the viscosity and suspending
properties. Its water absorption capabilities allow it to form a gelatinous
mass Clove Essential Oil – spicy, warm, sweet fragrance that stimulates
the brain; also helps with toothaches and used in toothpastes and mouthwashes;
good insect repellent; used for disinfecting wounds and killing bacteria Cocamide DEA – a thickener and viscosity builder that is added
to liquid cleansers to help stabilize the lather and improve the formation
of foam Cocoamidapropyamine Oxide – a nonionic cleansing agent from coconut,
also has foaming, conditioning and viscosisty building properties. Cocamidopropyl Betaine – a very mild amphoteric surfactant; foam
booster, foam stabilizer Cocamidopropryl Hydroxysultaine – a mild surfactant with foaming
properties; facilitates conditioning Coenzyme Q-10 (Ubiquinone) – a coenzyme is a cofactor which is
necessary for enzymatic activity. Coenzyme Q-10 provides the source of
all cellular energy for building new cells and tissues. It is found in
every living cell in the body but diminishes as we age. Incorporating
Coenzyme Q-10 into skin care products increases the skin’s natural
ability to renew itself. Collagen – film former, moisturizer, protein, skin protectant;
very popular due to its ability to bind and retain many times its weight
in water and prevents trans-epidermal water loss; other properties include
adding sheen and building viscosity in products and leaving the skin smooth
and soft (not tacky); collagen is not water soluble; very stable, bland
in order, and light in color are more of the reasons cosmetic chemists
love to use this ingredient in products; finally, it is very similar to
the collagen produced by the body so it is not irritating Colloidal Sulfur – dissolves dry dead cells on surface of skin;
reduces oil-gland activity Coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara) Extract – credited with astringent,
emollient, conditioning, moisturizing, and possibly skin lightening properties;
usually extracted from the leaves so it has a high content of mucilage
and cystine making it useful for soothing sensitive and inflamed skin Comfrey (Symphytum Officinale) Extract – contains allantoin and
is considered excellent for soothing pain and is traditionally used for
eczema, sunburns, swelling, bruising, cuts, and acne. Credited with the
following properties: healing, astringent, emollient, soothing, anti-itching,
anti-inflammatory Cranberry Extract – loaded with phytonutrients (naturally derived
plant compounds), particularly antioxidants. Cranberries help prevent
urinary tract infection by preventing bacteria from sticking to the lining
of the urinary tract. Cranberries also help reduce bacterial adhesion
to teeth, thus reducing the formation of dental plaque. Cranberries prevent
ulcers by not allowing certain disease-causing bacteria to stick to the
stomach lining. Cranberries may also rid the skin of unhealthy bacteria. Cucumber (Cucumis Sativus) Extract – natural diuretic with cooling,
soothing, refreshing, anti-inflammatory and tightening properties make
this great for eyes; also helpful for wounds and burns; good to use in
aftershave products, products for stressed skin, products for sun, and
products for oily skin; contains amino acids and organic acids that are
claimed to strengthen the skin’s acid mantle. Cyclomethicone – a non-comedogenic form of silicone that can deliver
active ingredients and impart a silky, smooth feel to skin care products Decyl Polyglucose – natural foaming surfactant
that is extremely mild to the skin and eyes Deionized Water – water that has been processed to eliminate hardness
and minerals, and to avoid product contamination Denatured Alcohol 40B (SD Alcohol 40 B) – “specially denatured”
alcohol; the number 40 refers to the alcohol’s grade; this is a
high grade version of ethyl alcohol designed specially for cosmetic use;
it is antibacterial, and evaporates almost immediately, leaving the active
ingredients on the skin; excellent solvent because of it's strong grease
dissolving abilities; also used as an antiseptic; It is necessary in our
toner formulas to keep the salicylic acid in liquid form Diazolidinyl Urea – broad spectrum preservative to protect against
bacteria and fungi; also used as an antiseptic and deodorizer; for people
sensitive to formaldehyde, better to use imidiazolidinyl urea. There is
no higher level of skin reaction to formaldehyde-releasing preservatives
than to any other preservatives. Products need preservatives to prevent
mold, fungud, yeast, and bacteria from contaminating them. Not using preservatives
does have proven healthy risks while there has been no proven health risk
top using this preservative in skin care products. Dimethicone – silicone used to give products good flow and spreadability,
lubricity, and slip while protecting and conditioning the skin; used in
high SPFs to reduce greasiness and serving as waterproofer; can serve
as defoamer and protect the skin from moisture loss Dimethicone Copolyol – provides a soft feeling and helps reduce
irritation Dimethylaminethanol (DMAE) – an antioxidant membrane stabilizer
that prevents breakdown of the cell plasma membrane. DMAE when mixed with
other amino acids and nutrients dramatically improves the appearance of
sagging skin. In addition to increasing firmness, DMAE is credited with
increasing fullness in lip area, reducing fine lines above and below the
lips, and revitalizing the appearance of stressed, overtired skin Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline – shown to increase collagen activity
while decreasing collaganase activity Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate – foam booster, surfactant, anti-irritant Disodium EDTA – chelating agent and preservative DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid) – protein with large molecular weight
and good film forming properties to protect skin and help skin retain
moisture Echinacea (Echinacea Augustifolia) Extract – to
inhibit the enzyme hyaluronidase from destroying the skin’s hyaluronic
acid, which would lead to dehydration and premature aging. As we age,
the hydration level of our skin decreases as well. This is due to a reduction
in polysaccharides in our skin. Polysaccharides are responsible for hydrating
the skin due to their water-binding capacities. Properly hydrated skin
can conceal the appearance of many lines and wrinkles Elastin – along with collagen, elastin is a protein found in the
dermis. It has a smaller molecular weight than collagen and is thought
to be able to penetrate the skin and improve softness, suppleness, and
appearance of the skin by increasing flexibility and tension. It is credited
with healing and Anti-aging properties as well Elderberry (Sambucus nigra)Extract – diuretic; astringent, antiseptic,
and emollient; used to treat burns, rashes, inflammation, and skin irritations;
also helpful for bruises, swelling and wounds; said to cool sunburns,
lighten freckles, and diminish wrinkles by moisturizing skin. Emulsifying Wax NF – highest grade of emulsifying wax and the only
one used by drug companies; not a true wax - a blend of emulsifiers and
fatty alcohols to help stabilize a formula; NF = Natural Formulary. Ergocalciferol (Vitamin D) – often used with Vitamin A to help
epithelial growth and good pigmentation; this vitamin is absorbed through
the skin and helps improve skin feel and firmness with repeated use; often
called a keratinization regulator Ethylparaben – preservative; anti-microbial Eucalyptus Essential Oil – increases the oxygen supply of every
body cell through its ability to activate red blood cell functioning.
It is refreshing and stimulating, increases concentration and intellectual
capacities. It benefits the skin by its antiseptic and regenerative properties Evening Primrose (Oenothera Biennis) Extract – moisturizing properties
to treat excessively dry skin Eyebright (Euphrasia Officinalis) Extract – great for inflamed
eyes; slightly tonic, astringent, and soothing; rich in vitamin C Farnesol – credited with smoothing wrinkles, normalizing
sebum secretion, increasing skin’s elasticity, tissue tension, and
trapping moisture in the skin to prevent trans-epidermal water loss; it
is found in the skin and is involved in sterol biosynthesis; it penetrates
into the skin and acts as a true bioactivator; it is a component in Vitamin
K and found in many vegetables and essential oils; it is a biological
precursor and fatty alcohol; it also serves as a deodorizer in products Farnesyl Acetate – studies show using farnesyl acetate, farnesol,
and panthenyl triacetate together in products produce a variety of beneficial
effects on the skin’s metabolic process Fennel Essential Oil – smells like anise; moves and cleanses the
blood; helps neutralize toxicity in the body; reduces stress and nervousness;
has estrogen stimulating properties to help balance female hormones, helps
with PMS; said to tighten and enlarge breasts; has moisturizing properties Fir Essential Oil – uplifting and refreshing; modifier Frankincense Essential Oil – spicy, woody fragrance helps heal
physical and emotional wounds; used for meditating Fucus Vesiculosus, micronized (Bladderwrack) – another brown algae
rich in trace elements with excellent occlusion properties Geranium Essential Oil – rose-like fragrance is
great for calming and balancing; balances hormones during menopause; uplifting
for depression, nervous tension, or fear; excellent for all skin types
and conditions including acne, broken capillaries, dermatitis, sensitive
skin, and aging skin Ginkgo Biloba Extract – said to have a protective effect on capillary
walls as well as antioxidant properties to protect the skin from free
radicals which lead to aging; also said to have the ability to stimulate
tissue oxygen consumption. Ginseng (Panax Ginseng) Extract – this root has important vitamins
and hormones that are credited with protecting the skin from harsh environmental
stresses. They are also responsible for revitalization, oxygenation, and
reactivation of epidermal cells. Ginseng has been credited for increasing
skin elasticity, diminishing wrinkles, and moisturizing dry skin Glycerin – its water-binding capabilities allow it to draw moisture
to the skin. Adds suppleness and improves spreadability; acts as a humectant,
emollient, and lubricant Glyceryl Cocoate – emulsifier and ointment base Glyceryl Polymethacrylate – used as a lubricant, moisturizer, and
thickener Glyceryl Stearate – an emulsifier that serves as a humectant, skin
lubricant, and assists in forming neutral, stable emulsions. It is derived
from palm kernel but is also found in the human body so it has low irritation
potential Glycol Distearate – pearlizing agent for cleansers; clear pearlescent
glow; opacifier, emulsifier Glycolic Acid – AHA, exfoliant, acidulent, moisturizer; works by
reducing excess dead skin cell buildup by reducing coneocyte cohesion
and corneum layer thickening; this also clears up and prevents many common
skin problems, including acne, aging, and pigmentation; the smallest molecular
weight of all AHAs so it is able to penetrate the epidermis the quickest
and the farthest – this makes it the most irritating as well; strength
of the glycolic is heightened with a high concentration (%) and a low
pH; glycolic is naturally found in sugar cane but most often produced
in a lab for skin care products; proper use of glycolic can leave skin
feeling softer, smoother, healthier, and younger looking with a reduction
in appearance of fine lines and wrinkles Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Extract – contains glycyrrhizin,
a powerful anti-irritant that helps to prevent the erythema that triggers
the chain of reactions that lead to the production of melanin. Studies
show that licorice extract has a strong depigmenting effect, stronger
than both kojic acid and ascorbic acid. It also inhibits melanin synthesis
due to its ability to act as a tyrosinase inhibitor Gotu Kola Extract (Centella Asiatica Extract or Hydrocotyl (Centella
Asiatica) Extract) – also known as Indian Pennywort. Gotu kola is
healing and may promote circulation, which would make it good for cellulite.
It does inhibit keratinocyte proliferation so it is helpful for severely
dry skin conditions such as psoriasis. It is helpful for couperose and
other benefits provided include healing, soothing and anti-itch properties. Grapefruit Essential Oil – light fresh fruity fragrances increases
circulation and tightens skin so it is good for cellulite; uplifting;
encourages positivism and well-being; used for regulating eating disorders Grapeseed (Vitis Vinifera) Extract – considered a counterirritant
with soothing and antibacterial properties. It also serves as an antioxidant
as it has free radical scavenging abilities Grapeseed (Vitis Vinifera) Oil – high linoleic acid content makes
it extremely nourishing and moisturizing Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis or C. Oleifera) Extract – noted to
be rich in potent antioxidants called catechins; also credited with anti-inflammation,
anti-oxidation, bacteriostatic, and antiallergenic properties. Ground Ivy (Glechoma Hederacea) Extract – high in vitamin C; has
diuretic, cooling, and gently stimulating properties. Historically applied
to bruises and “black eyes” in the form of a poultice Hexadecanol (Cetyl Alcohol) – serve as emollients,
emulsifiers, and viscosity builders Hawaiian White Ginger Extract – improves circulation and aids in
muscle relaxing Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Acid – high in vitamin C; has a soothing
effect on mucous membranes Horse Chestnut (Aesculus Hippocastanum) Extract – botanical, usually
from the seed, that is credited with the following: antiphlogistic, anti-inflammatory,
spamolytic, and circulation promotion. As a vasoconstrictor, it has circulatory
stimulating as well as skin-cell stimulating properties; credited with
reducing the permeability of capillaries which make it great to use in
products for fragile or broken capillaries; also useful in products to
stimulate circulation and normalize circulatory disorders Horsetail (Equisetum Arvense) (Shave Grass) Extract) – used to
treat wounds, skin disorders, and helps retain skin moisture; properties
include stimulating, astringent, soothing, healing, and softening; good
to use in both Anti-aging and acne products. Due to its rich mineral content,
it is able to strengthen the skin’s defense mechanism; due to the
silic acid, it can strengthen the connective tissue Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) – a glycosaminoglycan component
that occurs naturally in the dermis, and is credited with the following
properties: moisturizer, lubricant, skin conditioner, Anti-aging, and
skin protectant. It has been credited with holding as much as 1800 times
its weight of moisture in the skin. Application to the skin’s surface
gives immediate smoothness and hydration. Although the molecular size
is too large to penetrate into the skin, it acts on the skin’s surface
much like the naturally occurring hyaluronic acid acts to trap water in
the intercellular matrix of dermal connective tissue. Using this ingredient
in moisturizers is great because it allows the use of lower levels of
emollients which results in a less “greasy” product while
retaining high levels of moisture retention. Hybrid Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorisu) Oil – non-comedogenic carrier
oil that is also very hydrating for the skin Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans – used in cosmetics for their ability
to increase hydration in the deeper cell layers of the skin, which in
turn increases the elasticity and pliability of the skin. Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans
serve as a vital moisturizer and lubricant in the intercellular spaces
between epidermal cells. The absence of this lubricating moisturizer can
accelerate the deterioration of the skin’s collagen, resulting in
the loss of elasticity, flexibility, and tonicity (skin tone). The skin
easily accepts glycosaminolglycans because it has a small molecular structure.
It is recommended for stressed and aging skins and is credited with moisturizing
and firming properties. Skin benefits include an increase in hydration,
smoothness, and softness with a minimization of the appearance of wrinkles. Hydrolyzed Milk Protein – gives a smooth feel to the skin by forming
a soft film with high gloss. Casein (milk protein) is well absorbed by
the skin and helps the skin retain water. Hydrolyzed means the milk protein
has been broken down into smaller pieces for better absorption Hydrolyzed Soy Protein - vegetable derived to enhance water retention
and skin moisturization. Because of their reduced size, amino acids can
penetrate deeper into the stratum corneum’s cell layers than proteins
with a higher molecular weight, such as collagen Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein – offers conditioning, moisturizing and
film-forming properties. It is used as a suitable or better substitute
in almost all applications where hydrolyzed animal protein (collagen,
elastin, etc.) would traditionally be used. Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein – benefits claimed are a soft and silky
skin feel, increased moisture retention thereby improving skin elasticity
and decreasing chapping and irritation conditions. Proteins are hydrolyzed
to achieve lower molecular weights, which enhance moisture-binding properties Hydroxyethyl Cellulose – obtained from wood pulp or chemical cotton
by treatment with an alkali; functions include: thickener, stabilizer,
suspending agent, protective colloid, binder, and stabilizer Hypericum (St. John’s Wort) - used to heal wounds, skin irritations,
bruises, and swelling Imidiazolindinyl Urea – 3rd most popular antibacterial
preservative used in the United States; used with the parabens for broad
spectrum protection; although it may yield low levels of formaldehyde
when subjected to destructive methods (high temperatures), normal use
yields no detection of free formaldehyde release; it is very unlikely
to cause skin sensitization and allergic reactions. There is no higher
level of skin reaction to formaldehyde-releasing preservatives than to
any other preservatives. Products need preservatives to prevent mold,
fungud, yeast, and bacteria from contaminating them. Not using preservatives
does have proven healthy risks while there has been no proven health risk
top using this preservative in skin care products. Indian Plantain (Plantago Major) Extract – this banana-like fruit
is credited with cooling, soothing, antiseptic, astringent, and bacteriostatic
botanical properties Iris Extract – emollient properties for moisturizing extra dry
skin Japanese Green Tea – antioxidants that help protect
the skin from damaging free radicals Jasmine Essential Oil – floral, very uplifting – brings us
into a good mood faster than any other essential oil; helps recaptures
self-confidence; aphrodisiac, antidepressant; balancing Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil - a naturally occurring oil from the jojoba
plant that closely mimics the skin’s natural sebum. Native Americans
thought it magical because of its ability to heal the skin. Studies indicate
a rapid penetrate into the corneal layer where it acts with intercellular
lipids to reduce water loss. It provides excellent spreadability and the
skin takes in only as much as it needs. Juniper Extract – antiseptic, diuretic, and tonic properties to
stimulate circulation Juniperberry Essential Oil – detoxifies blood and serves as a diuretic
during fasting; stimulates digestive system; used for sore muscles, eczema,
acne, varicose veins; dispels negative “energy” in room; strengthening
and uplifting Kaolin (China Clay) – a non-comedogenic soft white
powder that provides good coverage for “suffocation” and absorption
abilities which makes this mask a great mask for oily and acne skins and
to use in the T-zone for combination skins; helps enzyme adhere to the
skin yet is easily removed Kojic Acid – antioxidant which inhibits melanin synthesis by chelating
the copper contained in tyrosinase rendering it useless so it can’t
make new melanin Kola (Cola Acuminata) Nut Extract – stimulant and an antiseptic;
it improves circulation and reduces skin irritation Kukui (Aleurites Molaccana) Nut Oil – contains more of the essential
fatty acids than any other vegetable oil. Essential fatty acids are important
in maintaining the integrity of the lipid structures in the intercellular
spaces to prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). It quickly absorbs
into the skin, leaving a smooth, non-greasy feeling. It is exceptionally
stable due to its high levels of monounsaturated fat, natural phenols,
and antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E Kumquat Extract – rich in Vitamin C; antioxidant to protect skin
from damaging free radicals Lactic Acid – occurs naturally in the body as a
component of the skin’s own natural moisturizing factor. Studies
indicate the pliability of the corneum layer is closely related to the
amount of lactic acid present in the skin. Also reported is that continuous
use of products with lactic acid between 5 and 12% provide a mild to moderate
improvement in fine wrinkling and softer, smoother skin Laminaria Algae Extract – anti-lipasic marine flora; has gelatinous
properties; used to provide body and substance to products; used in high
concentrations to make the thin, clear masks that peel off in one piece
– this occlusive mask allows the skin to build up a supply of water
in the skin which gives it a moist hydrated look Laminaria Digitata, micronized – brown algae rich in trace elements
& mineral salts; occlusive to allow skin to build up a supply of water
in the skin Lavender Essential Oil and Lavender Extract – is the most versatile
of all oils and most people like it. Properties include: cell rejuvenator,
anti-infectious, antiseptic, immuno-stimulant, calming, balancing, well-being,
induces sleep, and blends well. Lavender is also noted for soothing burns,
easing headaches and sore muscles, and helping with herpes, and sinus
problems Lecithin – a hydrophilic ingredient that attracts water; a natural
emollient found in all living organisms. In products, functions include
skin conditioner, emulsifier, moisturizer, refatting agent, wetting agent,
antioxidant, and spreading agent. Source is soybeans or egg. Lemon Bioflavonoids Extract – synergistic effect with ascorbic
acid (vitamin C); helps decrease capillary fragility which is partially
responsible for the appearance of fine red lines in the skin Lemon Essential Oil – the lemon conjures up images of freshness
and cleanliness. Lemon oil has high antibacterial properties. It lifts
ones spirit. It stimulates the mind increasing concentration and the ability
to memorize. Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Citratus) Extract – cleansing properties
aid in normalizing oily skin and keeps skin tissue from becoming congested;
source of vitamin A Lemon (Citrus Medica Limonum) Peel Extract – properties include
skin lightening, anti-bactericidal, antiseptic, astringent, antioxidant,
stimulant, and toning; used in products to treat sunburn, acne, and oily
skin; contains citric acid, Vitamins B and C, terpenoids, glycosides,
and essential oil; although rare, it can cause irritation and allergic
reactions Leucine – skin conditioning amino acid to enhance water retention
and moisturization; amino acids stimulate cell regeneration and have anti-oxidizing
and anti-inflammatory properties Licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) Extract – contains glycyrrhizin,
a powerful anti-irritant that helps to prevent the erythema that triggers
the chain of reactions that lead to the production of melanin. Studies
show that licorice extract has a strong depigmenting effect, stronger
than both kojic acid and ascorbic acid. It also inhibits melanin synthesis
due to its ability to act as a tyrosinase inhibitor Lily Extract - astringent and healing properties for skin inflammation,
skin tumors, skin ulcers, and burns Lime Essential Oil – has a lively, fresh fragrance that stimulates,
cheers, and refreshes. It is antiseptic and helps fight infections. It
is credited with firming the skin and connective tissue Linalool – colorless liquid oil produced by distillation of Indian
Basil Oil; has a flowery fresh smell Linden (Tilia Cordata) Extract – anti-inflammatory, soothing, and
refreshing; aids in healing minor skin irritations Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F) – an essential fatty acid found in a
variety of plants. This emulsifier works wonders on dry skin conditions
including eczema and psoriasis. Vitamin F smoothes out the roughness associated
with these dry skin conditions. In addition, it has also been shown to
decrease tyrosinase activity to suppress melanin formation. Lipoic Acid – amazing antioxidant that it is both water-soluble
and oil-soluble. This means it can fight free radicals in any part of
a cell (intracellular) as well as the spaces in between the cells (intercellular).
Lipoic acid increases the cell's metabolism, which allows the cell to
take in more nutrients, eliminate more wastes, and replace more damaged
components. Lipoic acid is the strongest and longest lasting antioxidant.
It increases the free radical fighting properties of other antioxidants.
Lipoic acid activates the transcription factor AP-1 that produces collagen-digesting
enzymes that digest damaged collagen. Damaged collagen is responsible
for wrinkles and scars so eliminating the damaged collagen can reverse
aging. Lipoic acid is credited with reducing under-eye puffiness, sallow
skin, enlarged pores, redness, lines, wrinkles & acne scars. Liposomes – double layer, hollow, spherical phospholipid membrane
vesicles that are used to encapsulate actives and deliver them into the
skin. Because their structure is so similar to the skin, they are easily
accepted by the skin. By themselves they prevent trans-epidermal water
loss by providing moisturizing, refatting and skin protectant properties.
When “loaded”, they act as time releasers of valuable actives.
They can encapsulate both water-soluble and oil-soluble substances such
as proteins, peptides, emollients, linoleic acid, and antioxidants. Lithothamnium Calcareum – red algae from Glenans; contains calcium,
magnesium, and other minerals necessary for re-balancing the skin Live Yeast Cell Derivative (Tissue Respiratory Factor = trade name) –
powerful anti-inflammatory and moisturizing agent that increases oxygen
respiration of skin for increased wound healing; great for sunburned skin;
increases collagen and elastin synthesis; moisturizes from the inside
out; contains trace vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and co-enzymes Lysine – skin conditioning amino acid to enhance water retention
and moisturization; amino acids stimulate cell regeneration and have anti-oxidizing
and anti-inflammatory properties Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) – a stabilized,
synthetically derived version of vitamin C. Vitamin C is an antioxidant
that helps inhibit UVA and UVB radiation-induced damage. It protects the
body against infectious conditions by strengthening the immune system.
Vitamin C acts as a collagen biosynthesis regulator and can have a skin-lightening
effect. Vitamin C exhibits some anti-inflammatory properties and might
promote healing of tissue damaged by burns or injury. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate – refined and purified smectite clay
that acts as a suspending agent and thickener Mallow (Malva Sylvestris) Extract – anti-inflammatory, soothing,
refreshing, and emollient; forms a soft, soothing protective gel; great
for wound healing Maltodextrin – absorbs moisture and also functions as a binder Mannitol – this sweetener is also used as a humectant Maritime Pine Bark Extract – used as a solvent, an antiseptic and
a stimulant Marjoram Essential Oil – stimulates parasympathetic nervous system;
prevents blockages in the sympathetic nervous system; dilates blood vessels;
helps with congestion of sinuses; relaxes, calms, comforts Marshmallow (Althea Officinalis) Extract – natural hydroglycolic
plant extract that is said to have emollient, soothing and healing properties;
good for aftershave, after sun, and dry skin Meadowfoam (Limnanthes Alba) Seed Oil – very emollient; may be
mixed with shea butter to replace lanolin in formulations; very stable;
penetrates into the skin quickly and does not leave a “greasy”
feeling Meadowsweet (Spiraea Ulmaria Flower) Extract – credited with strong
anti-free radical properties, as well as analgesic and topical anti-inflammatory
activity. In 1838, an Italian professor first produced salicylic acid
from the flowerbuds of the meadowsweet plant. In 1899, Bayer later formulated
a new drug called aspirin (derived from the plant’s Latin name:
a for acetyl and spirin from Spireae) Menthol – fragrance, antiseptic, cooling, refreshing, and circulatory
stimulating; irritating to the mucous membranes in high concentrations;
made of 50% peppermint oil or synthetically made by hydrogenation of thymol Methylparaben – a low sensitizing and non-comedogenic preservative
against bacteria and mold; antimicrobial. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer – film foamer Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) – MSM is organic sulfur. It is responsible
for the flexible bond between cells, including those that make up the
skin. It acts to block undesirable chemical and physical cross-linking
or bonding of collagen, which is associated with tough, aging skin. Consequently,
MSM enhances tissue pliability and encourages the repair of damaged skin Milk Protein, Hydrolyzed – gives a smooth feel to the skin by forming
a soft film with high gloss. Casein (milk protein) is well absorbed by
the skin and helps the skin retain water while leaving a smooth feel;
offers skin moisturizing and conditioning properties. Hydrolyzed means
the milk protein has been broken down into smaller pieces for better absorption. Milk Vetch Extract - Aids in treating stubborn, non-healing skin sores Mineral Oil – clear, odorless oil derived from petroleum and is
not known to cause allergic reactions; USP grade is not comedogenic and
works well in cleansers to add emolliency and to demulsify dirt trapped
in follicles; it is also good in products left on the skin when occlusivity
is needed to help improve barrier function. Popular in European skin care
products; preferred by more mature skin. Mugwort (Artemisia Vulgaris) Extract – anti-stinging, anti-irritant,
anti-inflammatory, offers some protection against UV, chemical irritants,
and the environment Mulberry (Morus Bombycis) Root Extract – acts to deactivate the
melanocyte itself Neroli Essential Oil – very uplifting, healing,
calming, relaxing, strengthening; antidepressant; great for anxiety Oat Beta Glucan – a blend of oat extract and refined
oat proteins that form an invisible layer over the skin to help retain
moisture while promoting the repair of skin cells; has high levels of
naturally occurring anti-oxidants to help protect against cellular damage;
soothing and healing properties Oat (Avena Sativa) Extract – a colloid that has soothing properties;
leaves skin feeling smooth, and provides a source of whole natural vegetable
protein; will increase viscosity and stability of product Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) – the most
popular worldwide sunscreen agent because it has excellent UV absorption
capabilities; solubility in both in oils and water; rarely causes reactions Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate – an ester that helps solubilize sunscreen
and an emollient with good spreading properties Octyl Salicylate (2-Ethylhexyl 2-Hydroxybenzoate; 2-Ethyl=Hexyl Salicylate)
– salt of salicylic acid from plants such as wintergreen that is
non-comedogenic and has been approved as a sunscreen agent by the FDA Orange Essential Oil – refreshing, purifying, calming, well-being.
It is a natural degreaser and can be soothing in low concentrations but
should not be used undiluted on the skin because it can be irritating Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 – stimulates skin fibroblasts
to rebuild the extracellular matrix, inducing the synthesis of collagen
I (increase 117%) and IV (increase 357%), of fibronectin and of glycosaminoglycans
(increase 357%) Pancreatic Enzyme – credited with improving cell mitosis, wound
healing, and oxygen intake. This is because pancreatic enzymes increase
cell permeability. This means the cell is better able to absorb nutrients.
Pancreatic enzyme is excellent at removing cells from the stratum corneum
layer because it has the following abilities: proteolytic (breaking down
and digesting protein); amylolytic (conversion of starch to sugar); and
lipolytic (breaking down and digesting fats) Pansy (Viola Tricolor) Extract – Contains salicylic acid; useful
for soothing, healing, cleansing Panthenol – alcohol form of vitamin B5; assists in absorbing and
stabilizing the skin’s moisture content. Panthenol also offers excellent
skin-repairing and wound healing abilities; thus it is considered to be
“anti-aging”. Panthenyl Triacetate – a panthotenic acid derivative with Vitamin
B activity that also functions as an emollient Pantethine – also called vitamin B5; assists in absorbing and stabilizing
the skin’s moisture content. Panthenol also offers excellent skin-repairing
and wound healing abilities; thus it is considered to be “anti-aging”. Papain – enzyme from papaya that serves as a gentle exfoliant on
the skin. It has the ability to dissolve keratin from the stratum corneum Papaya (Carica Papaya) Extract – a very gentle exfoliant and skin
softener; also serves as an antioxidant because it has vitamin C, citric,
acid, and flavonoids as active constituents. Paraguay Tea – contains xanthines that aid in smoothing and stimulating
skin Parsley (Carum Petroselinum) Extract – credited with reducing puffiness
and possessing soothing properties; said to be the key to a good complexion
– helping psoriasis, eczema, insect bites, stings, and acne Passion Fruit (Passiflora) Extract – rich in Iron and Vitamin C;
aids in treating bruises, acne, and burns Peach (Prunus Persica) Extract – cleansing, detoxifying, and healing
properties promote circulation and healing Pearl Powder – skin protectant, conditioner, and moisturizer with
some brightening properties. PEG 6-32 – PEG is an acronym for polyethylene glycol; when a number
accompanies it, it indicates the number of moles present (the PEG’s
weight). Different types and numbers of PEG’s present different
properties in a formula. PEG 6-32 is an emulsifier to help hold product
and enzyme mixture together. PEG-7 – PEG is an acronym for polyethylene glycol; when a number
accompanies it, it indicates the number of moles present (the PEG’s
weight). Different types and numbers of PEG’s present different
properties in a formula. PEG-7 is used in soaps and cleansers as a binder,
emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity increasing agent. PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate – self-emulsifying emollient especially
suitable for aqueous formulas. PEG 40 Castor Oil – nonionic surfactant and emulsifier, as well
as a powerful solubilizer. PEG-100 Stearate – PEG is an acronym for polyethylene glycol; when
a number accompanies it, it indicates the number of moles present (the
PEG’s weight). Different types and numbers of PEGs present different
properties in a formula. PEG-100 acts as a stabilizer and an emulsifier. Pentylene Glycol – moisturizer and anti-microbial. Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Extract – constricts capillaries,
refreshes skin, and is said to calm the nerves; astringent, antiseptic
and anti-bacterial. Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Essential Oil – credited with refreshing,
cooling, bactericidal, and anti-irritant properties. Also used as a natural
fragrance. Periwinkle (Vinca Minor) Extract – soothing, healing, and astringent
qualities; promotes skin rejuvenation and healing Petitgrain Essential Oil – relaxing and calming; hormonal balancing Petrolatum – is credited with softening and smoothing the skin
while accelerating the recovery of surface lipids. It permeates (so it
is not an impermeable barrier on the skin) throughout the corneum layer,
allowing normal barrier recovery despite its occlusive properties. It
prevents moisture loss due to evaporation and protects the skin against
irritation Phaeophyceae Algae – the benefits of this extract can be attributed
to the plants wealth of components that include vitamins, minerals, amino
acids, lipids, and polysaccharides, just to name a few. Algae is found
to be stimulating, revitalizing, nourishing, and moisturizing to the skin.
It also has anti-inflammatory and disinfectant abilities. Phenoxyethanol – preservative with a low sensitizing factor and
broad-range properties – fungicidal, bactericidal, insecticidal,
and germicidal. It may be obtained from phenol. Phospholipids – botanical, skin protectant, emulsifier, has a high
inflammatory and moisturizing agent that can promote wound healing; lecithin
and cholesterol are phosopholipids; phospholipids provide stability for
the cell membrane. Phytonadione 5% (Vitamin K1) – anti-inflammatory properties; has
been used topically to alleviate the discomfort and irritation following
chemical peels; promotes the healing of damaged skin and bruises by causing
the involved capillaries to heal faster; has been shown to decrease the
appearance of the redness of rosacea, and dark under-eye circles, and
spider veins of the face, as well as broken and distended blood vessels Pine Essential Oil – healing; strengthens us to deal with hopelessness,
fear, and nervous depression Pineapple (Ananas Sativus) Extract – this extract has cleansing
properties and serves as an antioxidant because of its active constituents:
vitamin C, citric acid, and sugars; also contains the enzyme bromelain
(see bromelain) Plantain (Plantago Major) Extract – this banana-like fruit is credited
with cooling, soothing, antiseptic, astringent, and bacteriostatic properties Plaster – Polyethylene Beads – abrasive, binder, gellant, powder, suspending
agent; provides the exfoliation action; less abrasive than almond particles Polyglycerylmethacrylate – forms a lightweight breathable film
to seal in the hydrating properties of our moisturizer Polysorbate 20 - an emulsifier, viscosity-modifier, solubilizer and stabilizer;
especially of essential oils in water. Polysorbate 60 – an emulsifier, solubilizer, wetting agent Propylene Glycol – solvent, humectant, wetting agent, and 2nd most
common moisture-carrying vehicle (water is 1st); excellent permeation
and pleasant feel; completely safe for use in products at 5% or less,
which it is always used at less in cosmetics; it also helps keep products
from melting when hot and from freezing when cold. Note: some websites
erroneously claim it is harmful but there have been no studies proving
this. In fact, studies have shown just the opposite. Propylparaben – a low sensitizing and non-comedogenic preservative
against bacteria and mold; antimicrobial Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) – assists in absorbing and stabilizing
the skin’s moisture content. Panthenol also offers excellent skin-repairing
abilities; thus it is considered to be “anti-aging” Psyllium Husk Seed Extract – credited with moisturizing properties Pumpkin Extract – helpful for acne and seborrhea due to its purifying
properties; may help tighten and hydrate the skin as well. Unlike other
botanicals, pumpkin contains over one hundred densely populated nutrients. PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) – imparts non-greasy feel, helps product
“stick” to skin better; has water-resistant and wear-resistant
properties Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6 HCI) – a skin-conditioning
agent vital for building protein; cell regeneration and repair Quaternium-15 – all-purpose preservative for bacteria,
mold, and yeast; has been shown to be highly sensitizing in some leave-on
products but in other products that have been specially formulated and
adjusted to avoid formaldehyde release, it presents no problems Quince Seed (Pyrus Cydonia) Extract – effective in soothing irritated
tissue and in healing sores Retinol - considered a skin revitalizer; offers cumulative
benefits in promoting the renewal of skin cells; within 2 weeks, skin
should appear smoother and more radiant. After 8 to 12 weeks, the appearance
of fine lines and wrinkles will be diminished Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate) – an antioxidant and a
skin-conditioning agent known as a skin “normalizer”. It is
made up of the ester of retinol and palmitic acid. Retinyl Palmitate acts
as an anti-keratinizing agent which helps the skin stay soft and plump.
It also improves skin’s water-barrier properties so it is useful
in combating dryness, heat, and pollution. Retinyl palmitate will increase
collagen, DNA, skin thickness, and elasticity Rhodophyceae Algae – the benefits of this extract can be attributed
to the plants wealth of components that include vitamins, minerals, amino
acids, lipids, and polysaccharides, just to name a few. Algae is found
to be stimulating, revitalizing, nourishing, and moisturizing to the skin.
It also has anti-inflammatory and disinfectant abilities. Riboflavin Rice Starch – crystalline polymeric compound that comes from the
grains of rice that forms a soothing, emollient protective film on the
skin Roman Chamomile (Anthemis Nobilis) Extract – calming properties
help with inflammation, swelling, and bruising Rose Hip Oil – antiseptic, healing oil, improves skin hydration,
may regulate oil gland secretion, especially helpful for pruritis and
xerosis (itchy, dry skin) Rose Hips (Rosa Canina) Extract – extremely rich source of vitamin
C, containing ten times the amount contained in oranges; also contains
vitamins A, B, B2, E, K, and P, as well as iron and copper compounds Rose Hip Oil – Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Extract – helps improve blood
circulation through stimulation, which in turns aids in skin regeneration.
It is also credited with being a wound healer, an astringent, a toner,
a stimulator, a deodorant, an antiseptic, a softener, and a bacteriostatic Rosemary Essential Oil – it has been said that rosemary drives
away evil spirits! Rosemary has the highest content of hydrogen. Hydrogen
comes closest to heat-related substances on the planet. This explains
the oil’s strong, warming effect. Applied to the skin, rosemary
increases warmth and stimulates blood circulation. It penetrates through
the skin as a detoxifier and is extremely beneficial when used in massage.
Its properties are: analgesic, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiseptic,
astringent, and fungicidal. Rosemary is beneficial for oily or troubled
skin, acne, dermatitis, and eczema Royal Jelly Extract – said to help with the regeneration of dermal
tissue, restoring elasticity, healing burns and cuts. Worker bees produce
royal jelly for the nutrition of the queen bee. It can transform an ordinary
female bee into a queen bee and will increase her normal life span from
3 months to over 5 years. The queen will become incredibly fertile on
this diet and will lay over 2,000 eggs in a single day. It is one of the
richest natural sources of panothenic acid, also known as vitamin B-5.
It also contains proteins, vitamins (A, B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, C, D, and
E), minerals (calcium, copper, iron, phosphorous, potassium, silicon,
and sulfur), carbohydrates, water, growth factors, and various trace elements. Ruscus Aculeatus (Butcher's Broom) Root Extract – said to have
diuretic and anti-itch properties as well as slimming and anti-cellulite
effects Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorisu) Oil (Hybrid) –
non-comedogenic carrier oil that is also very hydrating for the skin Sage (Salvia Officinalis) Extract – astringent, anti-bacterial,
antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, stimulating, softening, invigorating, and
healing properties; extracted from the leaves Saint John’s Wort (Hypericum Performatum) Extract – used
to heal wounds, skin irritations, bruises, and swelling Salicylic Acid – from the leaves of wintergreen, salicylic acid
is antiseptic and it has a keratolytic activity on the skin’s surface.
It helps dissolve the top layer of the skin and improves the look and
feel Sandalwood Essential Oil – great for meditating and healing the
spirit; helps with nervous tension, anxiety, isolation Sclerotium Gum – thickener, stabilizer, and spreading agent that
is also used to improve the feel of a product. Scutellaria Galericulata (Skullcap Root) Powder – powerful antioxidant
and anti-inflammatory agent; primary chemical constituents include lignan,
tannin, essential oil, flavonoids (scutellarin), scutellonin, isoscutellarin,
wogonin, baicalin, baicalein, beta-sitosterol, bitter (scutellaine) palmitic
acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, phenols, calcium, B vitamins Sea Kelp (Macrocystis Pyrifera) Extract and Seaweed – skin softening
and skin soothing; derived from the giant Pacific kelp; loaded with so
many active constituents its like giving skin a “nutrient cocktail”;
credited with improving blood circulation, regenerating damaged skin,
accelerating wound healing (including sunburns), purifying, soothing,
oxygenating, etc. Seaweed – skin softening and skin soothing; loaded with so many
active constituents (vitamins, minerals, amino acids, etc.) its like giving
skin a “nutrient cocktail”; credited with improving blood
circulation, regenerating damaged skin, accelerating wound healing (including
sunburns), purifying, soothing, oxygenating, etc. Shea Butter – credited with restoring skin suppleness and dry skin;
increases moisturization, protects skin from dehydration associated with
climate changes Silica – oil absorbent, carrier, helps keep powders free-flowing Skullcap Root (Scutellaria Galericulata) Powder – powerful antioxidant
and anti-inflammatory agent; primary chemical constituents include lignan,
tannin, essential oil, flavonoids (scutellarin), scutellonin, isoscutellarin,
wogonin, baicalin, baicalein, beta-sitosterol, bitter (scutellaine) palmitic
acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, phenols, calcium, B vitamins Soap Bark Extract – natural surfactant
Sodium Alginate – obtained from marine extracts and used as a thickening,
gelling agent Sodium Ascorbate – this Vitamin C functions as an antioxidant and
an AHA Sodium Carbomer – thickener, stabilizer, emulsifier Sodium Citrate – functions include buffering, conditioning and
AHA properties Sodium Copper Chlorophyll – a natural coloring agent that is credited
with skin soothing and healing properties due to its phytol content Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) – excellent moisturizing agent
capable of binding 1,800 times its own weight in water. It is an emulsifier
and viscosity builder. Sodium Hyaluronate is found in skin and connective
tissue. Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic
acid, a glycosaminoglycan component, occurs naturally in the dermis, and
is a natural moisturizer. Its water-absorption abilities and large molecular
structure allow the epidermis to achieve greater suppleness, and proper
elasticity. When applied topically, hyaluronic acid forms a film on the
surface of the skin that acts similar to the way hyaluronic acid holds
water in the intercellular matrix of dermal connective tissues. Its ability
to retain water gives immediate smoothness to rough skin surfaces and
significantly improves skin appearance Sodium Hydroxide – commonly called caustic soda; used for making
soaps and cleansers Sodium Laureth Sulfate – low-dioxane surfactant and foam booster
with good skin compatibility Sodium Metabisulfite – preservative, antioxidant Sodium Sulfate – a filler used in making soaps Sorbic Acid – broad spectrum preservative for molds and yeasts Sorbitan Monoleate – a secondary emulsifier; helps to reduce particle
size of the oils Sorbitan Stearate – an emulsifier and a solubilizer of essential
oils in water Sorbitol – absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness
and leaves the skin feeling smooth Soy Apropylkonium Chloride - emulsifier Soybean Oil – said to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin,
proteoglycans, and structural glycoproteins. It has a high content of
phosphatides (lecithin), sterols, and vitamins A, E, and K. Soy Phospholipids - botanical, skin protectant, emulsifier, moisturizer,
and skin conditioner Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed - vegetable derived to enhance water retention
and skin moisturization. Because of their reduced size, amino acids can
penetrate deeper into the stratum corneum’s cell layers than proteins
with a higher molecular weight, such as collagen Soy Stearols – a non-comedogenic emulsifier, emollient, and emulsion
stabilizer Spanish Sage Essential Oil – anti-depressant, anti-fatigue, especially
mental strain Spiraea Ulmaria Flower (Meadowsweet) Extract – credited with strong
anti-free radical properties, as well as analgesic and topical anti-inflammatory
activity. In 1838, an Italian professor first produced salicylic acid
from the flowerbuds of the meadowsweet plant. In 1899, Bayer later formulated
a new drug called aspirin (derived from the plant’s Latin name:
a for acetyl and spirin from Spireae) Spiruline - a blue micro algae and a natural anti-aging cocktail. Vitamins
include A, lots of Bs, C, and E. Trace elements to help our skin fight
against time are zinc, manganese, copper, and selenium. Finally, the Super
Oxide Dismutase (S.O.D.) enzyme helps strengthen the skin’s antioxidant
activity. Squalane – odorless, colorless, tasteless, and easily absorbed.
Obtained from olives; prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL); restores
skin suppleness and flexibility; excellent spreadability, completely stable
and safe for all skin types. Human sebum is made of 25% squalane making
squalane very compatible with skin. Note: Squalane used to be used in
products, it came from sharks; it is rarely used today. Stearic Acid – emulsifier and thickening agent Stearyl Alcohol – saturated alcohol of high purity used to build
viscosity and for anti-foaming and lubricating Sulfur – mild antiseptic used to heal acne and skin rashes Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Extract – smoothes and softens skin
while also aiding in balancing oily skin Sunflower Seed (Helianthus Annuus) Oil – this is a special hybrid
sunflower seed oil that offers superior emolliency, elegant skin feel,
and excellent spreadability. Best of all, studies show it has a ten times
longer shelf life than traditional vegetable oils. Oleic acid, the major
fatty acid found in our sunflower seed oil is also common in the natural
oils produced by the skin so it is easily absorbed by the skin to hydrate
from within without leaving the greasy feeling typical of other oils.
And, of course, it is hypoallergenic, and non-comedogenic Superoxide Dismutase – an enzyme that inhibits free radical production;
it also serves as a free radical scavenger by converting the superoxide
radical into hydrogen peroxide which is then changed into molecular oxygen
and water. It is the cell's natural defense system. In products, functions
include moisturizer, enzyme, skin protectant, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory. Sweet Violet (Viola Odorata) – has cooling, soothing, puffiness
reducing, anti-itch, and antiseptic properties Talc – has absorptive properties; adds softness
and slide; use for adding bulk to a product; made from the finely ground
mineral magnesium silicate Tapioca Starch – absorbent yet moisturizing powder that leaves
skin soft as opposed to dehydrated with kaolin clay formulas; also increases
cushion in the formula and provides a smoother consistency than cornstarch,
both of which help calm the skin and reduce redness Taurine – skin conditioning amino acid to enhance water retention
and moisturization; amino acids stimulate cell regeneration and have anti-oxidizing
and anti-inflammatory properties TEA-Carbomer – high molecular-weight cross-linked polymers used
as thickening and suspending agents and emulsion stabilizers with emulsifying
and pH adjusting properties Tea Tree Essential Oil – possibly the best all around immunostimulant.
Tea tree is a broad spectrum antimicrobial, antiseptic, anti-viral, anti-fungal,
and anti-infectious. My be used “neat” or undiluted on the
skin and has a low incidence of skin sensitivity Tetrasodium EDTA – chelate, preservative, antioxidant Thermal water – water that has hot or cold properties when activated
in a product; often used in masks Thyme, Wild (Thymus Vulgaris) Extract – may have collagenase inhibitor
abilities; may have insect-repellent properties; antiseptic, tonic, antibacterial,
deodorizing, fungicidal, and circulatory stimulating properties; contains
thymol, an antiseptic used for dermatitis, insect bites, eczema, and psoriasis Tissue Respiratory Factor (Live Yeast Cell Derivative) – powerful
anti-inflammatory and moisturizing agent that increases oxygen respiration
of skin for increased wound healing; great for sunburned skin; increases
collagen and elastin synthesis; moisturizes from the inside out; contains
trace vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and co-enzymes. Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) – a physical or reflecting SPF approved
for use by the FDA; when applied, it remains on the skin’s surface
and scatters or reflects back the UVA rays; “micro” or “ultra”
means the particle size is smaller so it leaves less of a whitish look
on the skin; has a synergistic increased SPF effect when combined with
organic sunscreens; sometimes used as a colorant to make a product white Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate) – non-comedogenic antioxidant
that enhances skin’s healing process and also have skin-moisturizing
properties. Vitamin E Acetate is commonly used to replace Vitamin E because
it is more stable and is converted to Vitamin E by the body. Vitamin E
is considered the most important oil-soluble antioxidant and free radical
scavenger. Studies indicate that Vitamin E performs these functions when
applied topically. It is also a photoprotectant and it helps protect the
cellular membrane from free radical damage. It is also used to prevent
oils and sebum from rancidity Tomato – lycopene is the major carotenoid in tomatoes and is a
potent antioxidant that has been shown to reduce cancer-causing free radicals.
Within the cell, lycopene works with the Vitamin E membranes to prevent
lipid peroxidation, which is the primary cause of age spots. Tricontanyl PVP – oil-soluble, disperant, film-former, water-proofing
and wear-proofing agent that is often used in high level SPF’s to
lessen amount of sunscreen chemicals needed and to boost SPF; studies
have shown little to no photoallergy or toxicity Triethanolamine – an emulsifier and pH adjuster; required to be
cross-linked with carbomer to form polymer Tyrosine – an amino acid that may assist in “activating”
melanin synthesis to prolong the effect of a tan Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q-10) – a coenzyme is a cofactor
which is necessary for enzymatic activity. Coenzyme Q-10 provides the
source of all cellular energy for building new cells and tissues. It is
found in every living cell in the body but diminishes as we age. Incorporating
Coenzyme Q-10 into skin care products increases the skin’s natural
ability to renew itself Urea – enhances the penetration ability of other active substances
for increased absorption; protects the skin’s surface by regulating
the hydro-lipidic mantle; helps skin feel soft and supple; anti-inflammatory
and antiseptic; attracts and retains moisture in the corneum layer while
dissolving intercellular cement so it has a desquamating action Valine – skin conditioning amino acid to enhance
water retention and moisturization; amino acids stimulate cell regeneration
and have anti-oxidizing and anti-inflammatory properties Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate) – an antioxidant and a skin-conditioning
agent known as a skin “normalizer”. It is made up of the ester
of retinol and palmitic acid. Retinyl Palmitate acts as an anti-keratinizing
agent which helps the skin stay soft and plump. It also improves skin’s
water-barrier properties so it is useful in combating dryness, heat, and
pollution. Retinyl palmitate will increase collagen, DNA, skin thickness,
and elasticity. Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) – assists in absorbing and stabilizing
the skin’s moisture content. Panthenol also offers excellent skin-repairing
abilities; thus it is considered to be “Anti-aging” Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Palmitate) – antioxidant that helps inhibit
UVA and UVB radiation-induced damage. It is said to be able to help the
body fortify against infectious conditions by strengthening the immune
system. Along with being photoprotective, Vitamin C also acts as a collagen
biosynthesis regulator. It can have a skin-lightening effect. Vitamin
C exhibits some anti-inflammatory properties and might promote healing
of tissue damaged by burns or injury Vitamin D (Ergocalciferol) – often used with Vitamin A to help
epithelial growth and good pigmentation; this vitamin is absorbed through
the skin and helps improve skin feel and firmness with repeated use; often
called a keratinization regulator Vitamin E (Tocopherol Acetate) – non-comedogenic antioxidant that
enhances skin’s healing process and also have skin-moisturizing
properties. Vitamin E Acetate is commonly used to replace Vitamin E because
it is more stable and is converted to Vitamin E by the body. Vitamin E
is considered the most important oil-soluble antioxidant and free radical
scavenger. Studies indicate that Vitamin E performs these functions when
applied topically. It is also a photoprotectant and it helps protect the
cellular membrane from free radical damage. It is also used to prevent
oils and sebum from rancidity Vitamin F (Linoleic Acid) – an essential fatty acid found in a
variety of plants. This emulsifier works wonders on dry skin conditions
including eczema and psoriasis. Vitamin F smoothes out the roughness associated
with these dry skin conditions. In addition, it has also been shown to
decrease tyrosinase activity to suppress melanin formation. Watercress (Nasturtium Officinale) Extract – believed
to help reduce sebum production; contains minerals, flavonoids, and vitamins
to help calm skin after sunburns Watermelon (Citrullus Vulgaris) Extract – excellent source of Vitamins
A and C; tightens and re-moisturizes skin Wax (Emulsrfying) – Wheatgerm Oil – high in lecithin and vitamin E; very emollient;
free radical fighting properties Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed and Wheat Hydrolysate – offers conditioning,
moisturizing and film-forming properties. It is used as a suitable or
better substitute or in almost all applications where hydrolyzed animal
protein (collagen, elastin, etc.) would traditionally be used Wild Cherry (Prunnus Serotina) Bark Extract – astringent and tonic;
aids in firming skin by constricting capillaries. Wild Thyme (Thymus Vulgaris) Extract – may have collagenase inhibitor
abilities; may have insect-repellent properties; antiseptic, tonic, antibacterial,
deodorizing, fungicidal, and circulatory stimulating properties; contains
thymol, an antiseptic used for dermatitis, insect bites, eczema, and psoriasis Willow Bark (Salix Alba) Extract – obtained from the bark of the
tree; contains tannin and a small quantity of salicin; helps dissolve
the top layer of corneum cells and improves the look and feel of the skin;
especially effective in products for acne, eczema, and aging. Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana) Distillate – aqueous solution
distilled from witch hazel twigs (see witch hazel extract). Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana) Extract – free radical fighter;
absorbs UVA and UVB rays; other properties include: anti-inflammatory,
anti-itch, softener, emollient, antiseptic, and skin regenerating Xanthan Gum – gelling agent to stabilize and thicken
product Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium) Extract / Achillea Extract
– aids in reducing skin irritation and inflammation so it is good
for acne; astringent properties so it is good for oily skin; antibiotic,
antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, healing, and calming properties; historically
used to stop bleeding; reduces blood’s clotting time Yeast Extract – minimizes dryness and pain associated with severely
dehydrated skin from sunburn, windburn, or harsh drying products. Yeast Polysaccharides – a very special structure of the polysaccharides
present in the cell walls of yeast called beta-glucan. It is responsible
for stimulation of immune-competent cells, which in turn helps with accelerated
regeneration and wound healing. Activation of the immune system makes
it desirable in products for environmentally stressed and irritated skin.
It has extraordinarily high water-binding properties which results in
optimum hydration of the skin and leads to a firming of the skin and simultaneous
smoothing of wrinkles that will be noticed; great for sunburned and wind-chapped
skin. Yeast Protein, Hydrolyzed – benefits claimed are a soft and silky
skin feel, increased moisture retention thereby improving skin elasticity
and decreasing chapping and irritation conditions. Proteins are hydrolyzed
to achieve lower molecular weights, which enhance moisture-binding properties Ylang Ylang Essential Oil – helps calm a variety of skin disorders
including acne, eczema, inflammation, and irritation. It is credited with
the additional cutaneous properties: balancing and reducing oiliness,
softening, smoothing, soothing, antiseptic, and rejuvenating Yucca (Schidigera) Extract – natural foaming agent with anti-inflammatory
properties Zinc Oxide – a physical or reflecting SPF approved
for use by the FDA; when applied, it remains on the skin’s surface
and scatters or reflects back the UVA rays; “micro” or “ultra”
means the particle size is smaller so it leaves less of a whitish look
on the skin; has a synergistic increased SPF effect when combined with
organic sunscreens; sometimes used as a colorant to make a product white Zinc Sulfate – sulfuric acid with zinc to accelerate wound healing
and offer protection against UV radiation; promotes collagen synthesis
as well as keratinization of the corneum. Has a synergistic effect with
vitamin C, which means it helps the vitamin C to work better.
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